Tom Ford

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“See Now, Buy Now” at NYFW

NYFW SS17 has come to a close and I’ve got to be honest Voyeurs, was a little underwhelming *sadface*.  There was a time that NYFW was regaled as the mother of all Fashion Weeks and the barometer for those that follow, but now?  Not so much, and I’m not the only Fashion Influencer to feel this way.

 

I was however, intrigued to hear that Tom Ford would be showing during NYFW this season after a last minute cancellation in February, albeit shunning the traditional and expected format and showing a “See Now, Buy Now” collection during the FW16 season (including cosmetics and skincare).  Let me explain -  The fashion industry is set up to make you feel that there are two seasons: Spring / Summer (SS) February to September,  and Fall / Winter (FW) October to March.  We all know that fashion is cyclical but the idea of funding these multi million dollar campaign is that after one season (6 months) a person will shun the current “trend” and move on to the next season, buying items from the next collection to tap into the next “trend”.  Since the first NYFW in 1943, this has always been the case and designers have shown a season ahead in order to allow time for manufacturing and creating garments to sell “on season.”  Hence, you see the FW collections in February / March and the SS collections in September / October.

With me so far?  Ok, now I’m going to scramble your brain a little more -  I am of course, assuming you don’t already know this, I’ve had a lot of emails over the last two weeks from Voyeurs asking what the difference between “on season” and “off season” shows is, and although I’ve replied to all of them, this might help a little and give you something to refer back to, or even share with your friends and future Voyeurs.

Ok, now you have a very basic concept of Fashion Week as a ‘thing’, let’s fast forward to 2014 - Blogging was becoming serious business for the fashion industry, with Conde Nast representing some of the biggest names at the time including Bryan Boy and Susie Lau and Bloggers were taking their place on the Frows of huge shows.  This is when came the shift; the difference between Blogs and traditional print media is that magazines are also cyclical, printing once per week or once per month meaning you have to wait for your fix, but Bloggers make it instant, with content produced immediately and shared immediately, readers, fans and followers get a glimpse of the collections in real time.  Sure, Fashion Editors of your favourite magazines have been doing this for years, but not everyone follows or even knows who these Fashion Editor are, Bloggers have become known, recognisable and now, marketable.

People often ask me about the difference between blogging and fashion journalism, as you know I do both and there’s one clear difference to me and that’s The Voice.  Let me break it down; when you buy a magazine, you buy a piece of journalism, a feature that someone has written about a topic they’ve been asked to write about, the account is factual, and delivers a point.  Sometimes, in the case of a column, there will be added elements of humour and sometimes not but when you’ve read it, you’ve left with more information than when you started.  Blogging however, is conversational.  Sure we’re sometimes paid to write features but ultimately a blogger writes about whatever they want, they have full creative control over their content and frequency of publication.  When I’m writing for you guys, I’m writing as I would talk, it’s light, it’s fun and it’s sometimes not politically correct but the only person accountable is me.  Remember, it’s immediate and when I’m showing you those covetable items from Fashion Week, they’re not available to view or buy for another six long months.  Got it?

Ok, where were we?  Ah yes, the shift in the fashion industry….

Sooooooo, in February 2015 Burberry announced that it would shift to a “See Now, Buy Now” format which sent ripples across the industry.  The naysayers gasped, saying it would never work and was a crazy idea, and anybody in fashion manufacturing quaked in their leather rider boots at the thought of prepping an entire saleable collection pre-runway show.

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Basically the concept of “See Now, Buy Now” is simple: In September / October when an SS show would normally be shown, Burberry will show a season appropriate collection for FW, the season we’re actually in and the collection will be shoppable immediately.  Simples.  When Tom Ford announced plans to follow suit, people sat up and took notice.  Ford has the ability to pack out a show space like no other, the Grand Master of fashion with a legion of celebrity disciples so this idea must have legs, right?  Sure enough, this season alone Rebecca Minkoff and Vetements  have announced their intention to follow this model along with smaller labels.

Never one to sit quiet on a subject so prickly, Karl Lagerfeld proclaimed “Its a mess, the reality is that you have to give people the time to make their choice, to order the clothes or handbags, and to produce them beautifully so that editors can photograph them. If not, that’s the end of everything.”  Not a supporter of the See Now, Buy Now movement then eh Karl?

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With huge slumps in sales, mega discounts offered in outlet malls and the rise of fast fashion and runway reproduction on the high street, it’s no secret or surprise that the luxury fashion houses have been hit hard.  With ‘micro trends’ (think glitter roots, perspex heels, fur slides) on the rise due to online influencers, we’re seeing a new mini trend every fortnight and as a result, the designers have become the outsiders.  Now that NYFW SS17 is over, it’s time for those fashion houses to take stock; Tom ford showed an awesome See Now Buy Now collection with a whole marketing campaign designed around the very concept.  Although Calvin Klein, didn’t show this season the brand plans to emerge in February under the creative leadership of ex-Dior front man Raf Simons, and Michael Kors has unveiled his plans to show See Now Buy Now in February.

It’s clear that there are huge and exciting changes afoot for the fashion industry and although NYFW SS17 has been mediocre as best, the most memorable shows of the season are the ones which adopted a See Now, Buy Now format (I’m looking at you Tom Ford).

Over to you London….

Pixie xo

 

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NYFW SS17 Show Schedule

Show season is almost upon us Voyeurs with only 19 days until NYFW begins and SS17 brings with it some changes, and a whole lot of excitement.  Having separated from Mercedes Benz entirely, NYFW has a lot more freedom in terms of scheduling and ultimately, streaming.  SS17 sees a big shift in delivery and NYFW will open more shows than ever before to the public, something they’ve not really done in a big way, and also there’ll be more live and post show streaming than we’ve typically seen in the past.  So Voyeurs, get ready to get involved….

Here’s your NYFW SS17 show schedule for September 2016, obviously as always, this is subject to change.  You’ll notice that Tom Ford is making an epic return to show season in New York and on opening day no less, one addition since the show schedule was published is Yeezy Season 4 which will also show on opening day.

So, armed with your NYFW SS17 show schedule and the Fashion Voyeur guide to pronunciation, I’d say you’re set for the first quarter of Fashion Month, be sure to check back for show updates, pictures and of course LFW SS17 as your next installment.

See you on the Frow!

Pixie x

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Tom Ford Fall/Winter 2015 Campaign

Hold the phones people, Tom ford just dropped the opener for his Fall/Winter 2015 ad campaign and it’s all kinds of wonderful.  Cast your memory back to a sunny evening in LA this February and the throwback to rich seventies splendour that was the Tom ford Fall/Winter 2015 runway show….

We saw fringing, flares, suede, leather, a whole load of animal print and some seriously “shagable eyes” (Tom’s words, not mine), and now you can buy from those runway looks!  Yes, the Fall/Winter 2015 collections are landing as weak speak and the campaigns are huge. With Marc Jacobs casting stars of 80’s and 90’s movies in a genius move, Tom Ford has kept things pared back and simple and let his garments do the talking…..

Shot by Mario Sorrenti and featuring models Ondria Hardin and Lucky Blue, the campaign is striking for all the right reasons.  Cast your eyes over this little lot and see what you think….

Pixie x

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Show Me Some Skin….

The Fall Winter 2015 runways were awash with lavish suede and leather.  From fringed suede at Burberry to patchwork suede and leather at Tom Ford and everything in-between, it was clear to see that skin is most definitely in.

I’ve always been a huge fan of heavy luxury fabrics - velvet, crepe and now leather and suede, they have a way of upping the glam factor of any outfit and have the weight behind them to hang amazingly.  I couldn’t wait to write about how to jump ahead of the pack and get in on the trend early by working it into your Summer wardrobe too.  Both fabrics can be surprisingly versatile and easier to wear than you might imagine, coloured pieces can add drama; leather separates in bold primary colours can look rich and vibrant and soft, pastel coloured suede can be toughened up to create a great juxtaposition of textures.

There are some simple pieces you can pick up on the high street to update your wardrobe and they’re all hard working and not at all scary!  Not just for play, both fabrics are smart enough to be worn as workwear and with some clever dressing and accessorising, can take you from day to night in a flash.  Consider this my guide to the simplest way to get in on this trend, I’ve done the hard work and found you your dream pieces which will take you through Spring, Summer, Fall and Winter…..

First of all, dress to your usual style, you need to be comfortable, think of this as simply substituting textures rather than a complete style overhaul.  Personally, I like to play with textures and finishes and often like to mix a soft tailored piece with something that has more of a ‘rock’ vibe for a street style look, but there’s no reason why you can’t wear a suede jacket and a suede skirt, hey, it’s 2015 - anything goes!

I love wearing a structured pencil skirt with an oversized tank so let’s start with a suede skirt; this particular one is from ASOS, at £70 it’s a great way to get in on the trend without shelling out too much initially.  This one is a wrap over style so it’s real flattering and it has a D-ring fastener which gives it a high end finish.  I like to juxtapose this skirt with a tank and recently wore it to a fashion event with a Givenchy tee (minus the original sleeves).

Tempted by that gorgeous tan suede skirt from Marks and Spencer, you know, the one that’s been featured in Vogue, Elle, Look, Grazia, Marie Claire etc.?  Stop right there!  There are two reasons to proceed with caution: 1. You’re very unlikely to find it anywhere as it’s the most coveted suede piece around, and,  2.  If you are lucky enough to find it, you’re going to bump into at least four carbon copies of yourself the first time you wear it making you wish you’d kept the £200 in your purse.

So, in light of this, for really great unique leather and suede fashion pieces, my top tip is to try vintage and thrift stores first (make sure you check each piece thoroughly before buying).  We’ve all got at least one leather biker jacket in our wardrobes but I’ve picket up some amazing ones in thrift stores, and the great thing is, you won’t bump into another version of yourself on the high street.  Every time I go to the states, I come back with at least one great vintage leather or suede piece and last time was this super cute suede Pocahontas style fringed skirt.  It cost me $60 (a snip at around £30) and it attracts compliments every time I wear it, plus it makes me feel like Carrie Bradshaw and who doesn’t want that, right?!

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A black leather skirt is a really hard working, versatile option.  If you haven’t got one of these in your wardrobe then you need one, pronto!  Smart enough to be worn for the office but rock chick enough to be worn for a night out this is one item you’ll pull out of your wardrobe time and time again.  This one is from Year One Collective, priced at £120, it’s great quality leather and if you’re patriotic you’ll like this one as it’s made by a British designer.  Things to look for when shopping for a leather skirt: 1. A good strong zip - the last thing you want is your zip failing on you after a heavy dinner, and, 2. A split. Front or back it doesn’t matter as long as there’s a split. We’ve all seen that YouTube clip of the super glamorous girl who can’t traverse the staircase because of her unfeasibly tight skirt right?  Don’t let that be you.  River Island do a great leather skirt, it’s a repeat style which usually comes in to store around September and there are new colour ways added each year, this is last years red one and I’d highly recommend it, at £90 it’s a great buy but the downside is you’ll have to wait until later in the year to get it.

On the high street there are a gazillion options for a black leather pencil skirt, choose wisely.  On the investment end of the scale ASOS with a wide variety of shapes, styles and finishes.  From real leather to PU they’ve got you covered and if you head on over there now you’ll find that a lot of these styles are in the sale just waiting to be snapped up.

Not a fan of skirts?  Then maybe culottes are your thing.  Since Spring Summer 2014 the trend for culottes has grown exponentially and now they’re everywhere.  From New Look to Margiela, culottes are more than just a trend, they’re here to stay and with new leather and suede styles hitting the high street it’s easier than ever to tap road test this look.

My favourite leather culottes are from Topshop Boutique, buttery soft and smokey grey coloured, these culottes add a little luxury to any outfit, there’s just one rule with culottes: Always. Wear. Heels.  On top anything goes, I like to pair mine with a floaty black camisole, again, to juxtapose the textures but you could pair these with anything from a band tee to a cropped tee and duster coat - as long as you remember the golden rule and always wear heels.  These particular ones are pricey at £250 but River Island has some great PU alternatives for around £30.

This suede pair from this pair which are currently in the sale at Topshop for £65.

A great way to nail the trend in one piece is to try a dress.  Leather dresses have been around for ages, you may even already have one in your wardrobe, if you haven’t then your Mum is bound to so try her first.  Suede dresses however, are a relatively new concept on the high street and with so many of them sent down the runways during Fashion Month, you’d be wise to jump on this trend now.  My favourite leather dress is by Raoul, it was an investment piece at £695 but it’s my old faithful and something I come back to time and time again as it always makes me feel ‘dressed’.

There are a huge variety on the high street depending on which style you favour, ASOS has skater style, slip, pinafore, A-line and shift dresses available in leather and this one is my favourite, I’m awaiting my delivery but I know it will see me through the seasons and it’s a change from black.  At £120 I’d say it’s pretty reasonable.

In suede the style is more seventies in feel, think dropped waists and huge pockets and you’re on the right track, exposed zips also work really well with this look.  Mango does a great suede shirt dress but my best buy is this little beauty from Warehouse and at £110 it’s a complete outfit which isn’t too bad right? (It also comes in pink).

For Winter I’m a big fan of leather trousers and have two top picks:  Marks and Spencer does a great recurring style and new colourways are stocked each season.  The great thing thing about this pair is that the leather is super soft and the back section is ponte fabric meaning you don’t get the dreaded sag in the butt area and at £99 these are a steal.

Another of my favourites are the Paloma by PU) if you prefer for £290.

We all know that good quality leather and suede can be expensive and that it needs to be maintained, if you can’t stretch to either of these fabrics then alcantara makes a pretty good substitute for suede and there are some decent vegan / PU options out there instead of leather.  If you are opting for PU, bear in mind that it can, and will make you sweat so choose where you wear it and always try it first - if you can’t take the heat in a store dressing room then you’re probably not going to wear it out to dinner in the Summer.

In terms of jackets it’s simple - if you’re opting for suede then fringing is your best friend.  The high street is full of fringed and tassled suede jackets in a variety of colours - If they’re wearing it in Nashville then it’s definitely ‘in’.  For leather jackets, you can’t go wrong with a leather biker and that goes for any season.  If you want to mix it up a little then try a different colour for Summer, the SS15 runways were a parade of bold colours with cobalt blue being a standout.

So, now you’re armed and ready to hit the high street with bells on.  And probably fringing.  But most definitely a leather biker…..

Pixie x

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2015 CFDA Awards

The CFDA Awards recognise exceptional talent within the fashion industry and this year the nominees were all outstanding within their respective field.

Typically, designers arrive to the awards ceremony with a muse dressed to impress in something from the Designer’s current collection and competition on this years CFDA Awards red carpet was fierce.  from Anna Ewers in an Alexander Wang pailette dress with stomp boots, Amanda Seyfried in glittering Rodarte, right through to Janelle Monae in a stunning Tadashi Shoji cape dress, the red carpet was awash with knockout frocks.

There were a variety of presenters including Kim Kardashian and Taraji P. Henson giving out the awards, all eyes were on Kim Kardashian in Proenza Schouler as she hit the event within hours of announcing her second pregnancy, and the unveiling of the Caitlyn Jenner Vanity Fair cover.

Karlie Kloss never gives less than fantastic on the red carpet and this event was no different, wearing a DVF floor length Spanish inspired polka dot frock cut low at the front, the model looked phenomenal and confessed that under her gown, she wore flat shoes all night and felt great.

Models of the moment Natasha Poly and Gigi Hadid lit up the red carpet in Michael Kors; Poly in a statement red dress and Hadid in a glittering gold flared leg jumpsuit.

Juliette Lewis looked ethereal as she floated on to the red carped wearing a two piece Christian Siriano princess gown.  I have to admit, I had an audible gasp when I saw this gorgeous gown.

My ultimate favourite of the night was Diane Kruger, we all know the girl got immense fashion game and in a Prabal Gurung red garnet bustier gown, she was On Fleek.  As a wildcard runner up, I’m giving special credit to model Binx Walton for her conceptual Hood By Air creation, incidentally, Shayne Oliver of Hood By Air took home the award for Swarovski Award for Menswear.

“I am so glad to know there is life after winning a lifetime achievement award” Tom Ford on being named the CFDA Menswear Designer of the year 2015.

You can view the full CFDA Red Carpet Fashion gallery below, hit me up and let me know which on is your favourite and which you’re not so keen on….

Pixie x

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The full list of CFDA 2015 Winners is below:

Womenswear Designer of the Year: Ashley Olsen and Mary-Kate Olsen for The Row

Menswear Designer of the Year: Tom Ford

Accessories Designer of the Year: Tabitha Simmons

Swarovski Award for Womenswear: Rosie Assoulin

Swarovski Award for Menswear: Shayne Oliver for Hood by Air

Swarovski Award for Accessory Design: Rachel Mansur and Floriana Gavriel for Mansur Gavriel

Geoffrey Beene Lifetime Achievement Award: Betsey Johnson

The Media Award in Honor of Eugenia Sheppard: Instagram

The Founder’s Award in Honor of Eleanor Lambert: Millard “Mickey” Drexler, Chief Executive Officer and Chairman of the Board of J.Crew Group, Inc.

International Award: Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pierpaolo Piccioli for Valentino

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I Don’t Pop Molly, I Rock Tom Ford #TFLA

As NYFW draws to a close, focus shifts to LFW and what lies ahead.  However, this year is different, there’s a Tom Ford shaped pit-stop in L.A.

Last year when Tom Ford learned that his #LFW show would take place the Friday before The Oscars, he switched his show venue to Milk Studios L.A. in a bold move, something which no doubt, other designers will follow in future years.

Show-goers and fashionistas packed into the huge show space making up the glitziest most A-List FROW ever, Anna Winter, Julianne Moore, Amy Adams, Beyonce, Jay Z, Miley Cyrus with Patrick Schwarzenegger, and many, many more (all wearing custom Tom Ford of course.).  The runway was covered with the same super deep white shag-pile carpet as the Sloane Street store, a nod to the luxury we’ve come to know, love and expect from Tom Ford, and the room aesthetic was dark making the white carpet the absolute focal point for the audience.

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The beauty look was typical of Tom Ford, bold and striking, a pale lip, strong contouring and what he described as “shaggable eyes” also saying that this would be THE beauty look for the season, hair was pulled back off the face.

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There were several phases to this show, all with a heavy seventies influence, right from the patchwork denim to the Pucci-esque swirls and Missoni inspired zig-zags, leading into what Tom Ford does best; old school glamour.  Heavy on the black, models strutted in beaded and fringed gowns which revealed a hint of shoulder and collar bone - a new season fashion erogenous zone perhaps?

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There were knee high boots all over the runway with hemlines meeting the top-line of the boot, reminiscent of they typical Victoria Beckham silhouette.  The look was strong and highly covetable, in what has been considered a pretty weak NYFW, this show brought it back, more of a spectacle than a show, and more a talking point for its FROW than it’s frocks, this show gave Fashion Month some much needed edgy glamour and was cheered on and applauded by the FROW to end all FROWs.  We salute you Tom Ford.

Your move London…….

Pixie x