Runway

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LFW: CIMONE SS17

Carli Pearson, Founder and Creative Director of new womenswear label, CIMONE was trained at Central Saint Martins and prior to launching her own brand, she honed her craft in a variety of senior positions at some of the world’s top houses. She spent her first seven years at Stella McCartney, later moving on to become Design Director at Alexander Wang, Head of Show Collection at Pucci, and Head of Womenswear at McQ, Alexander McQueen.

Her second collection for spring/summer 2017, and first runway collection was shown as part of London Fashion Week’s SS17 season and received to rapturous applause.

A web of contradictions, the collection saw control versus chaos and high-end production values paired with repurposed textures; focusing on the interplay between naivety and self-assuredness.

statement pieces featured unique, interactive embellishment, moving with models bodies and reacting in unique ways, never appearing the same way twice.  A subtle and muted whitewash was brought to life with a vibrant injection of juxtaposed bold colour, appearing as splashes and stripes.

Very obviously influenced by the late Lee Mcqueen, Pearson has focused on confidence as the recurrent theme throughout the SS17 collection - with a little fun thrown in for good measure.

Pixie xo

 

 

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Fun Affair: Girls Grow Up at LFW

If you’re familiar with the London Fashion Scene then you’ll already be aware of Fun Affair.  Known for it’s gamine aesthetic and off-beat presentations, the brand oozes 90’s cool like no other.  From the in your face logos to the vinyl baseball caps, Fun Affair is one brand that should be on your radar.

 

Integrating abstraction exotica, minimalism and subversion, designer Xi Zhu strives to create an avant-garde and elegant sphere of design.   Zhu merges her oriental heritage with European romanticism and modernism to define her signature: ‘rebellion meets optimism’.  Seemingly on a mission absolute to manifest extreme beauty, marrying oriental beauty with mystery, stillness and power, Zhu is a designer for the modern day feminist crusader.

Hosted by LFW’s younger, funkier sister, Fashion Scout, the Fun Affair show begins in a perfectly white space allowing the garments to speak volumes.

The Fun Affair SS17 collection is all of that and more and the runway show is a journey from start to finish.  Inspired by the New Romantics, 80’s power dressing and postmodernism.  The SS17 Fun Affair-girl is edgy, feminine and sophisticated with just the right amount of attitude.  A girl gang for a new generation, and one I find myself wanting to be part of.

This season is all about playing with proportion and form. I caught up with Zhu after the show, noticeably nervous, she told me “It’s about women’s strength and rebelliousness, did you see the last look?  That’s my favourite thing I’ve ever created”

Highlights of the show and top of my shopping list were oversized bow knot shirts, high gloss 90’s style slipdresses, high-waisted jeans & baseball caps, and yes, the last look was my absolute favourite, in fact I’m working on recreating it right now….

Pixie xo

 

 

VANCOUVER, BC - SEPTEMBER 23:  A model walks the runway wearing ALEX S. YU at Vancouver Fashion week on September 23, 2016 in Vancouver, Canada.  (Photo by Arun Nevader/Getty Images for VFW Management INC)

Key Micro Trends from Vancouver Fashion Week

The 28th consecutive season of outsider Vancouver Fashion Week only just finished and six key trends appeared from what is considered one of the world’s top gateway fashion weeks.

Our very own Monarchs Prince William and Kate Middleton were in the host city during VFW, obvs they didn’t attend the shows, however the FROW was notably  celeb packed, cementing VFW as a fashion fringe event to pay close attention to.

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Silver appeared in several collections with Alex S. Yu, Evan Clayton, JKline and Maryam Niyazi all giving SS17 a silver spin on dresses, jackets and separates.

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We al know that the 90s were the best era for both fashion and music and that trend shows no sign of abating,  90s rave influenced a handful of collections including Angus Chiang, Balaclava, Lillz Killz and Naovoe. Acid colours, playful shapes and attitude in abundance moved this trend from the fringe to the frow.

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Texture clashing was prevalent across multiple designer shows – plastic pailettes, leather, metal, faux fur and cotton was combined, layered, juxtaposed and manipulated to create awesome contemporary looks.  With Alex S. Yu, Clio Page, HUY-HUY and Moon Choi leading the charge.

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Simplicity came in the form of purest white – swing dresses, shirts and daywear gave a nod to purity.  With Vestige Story, TKC Design, GH by German Hernandez and Zi Xia leading the pack on all things pure and simple.

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Pale pink was elevated from girly to focal and ended up in an array of collections as an accent colour or focal hue. Alogon, INSOMNIA, Angus Chiang and JKline pinked up their palettes to perfection and remember the golden rule, on Wednesdays, we wear pink….

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Ruffles, if ever a trend was created with Lawrence llewelyn-Bowen, this is it.  Solid hues, patterns and a deconstructed shirt saw ruffles taking centre stage and not small, understated ruffles, these were super sized and in your face, made to be seen ruffles.   Hannah Vanderveen, Moon Choi, Alex S. Yu and Nuska added one of fashion’s oldest embellishments to their spring/summer collections.

With another Fashion Month over we’ve been moderately treated to a variety of new trends and even in some cases a new way of buying.  With a relatively underwhelming start to show season (mentioning no names NYFW), London came through with the lift we needed.  After Scout, MFW and PFW, Vancouver has given us a whole host of micro trends to play with and I might not even wait until spring to get started…

Pixie xo

 

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A New Home For London Fashion Week

With Fashion Month right around the corner the eyes of the Fashion World will be on London for more than just the Spring / Summer 2016 trends.  That’s right folks, London Fashion Week has a new home.  As we know, Somerset House has been the home of #LFW since 2009 and after twelve hectic seasons and countless street stylers pounding the pavements of the square, man those cobbles could talk, but now it’s time for something fresh and new.

Models, led by Cara Delevingne (L) present creations from designer Burberry Prorsum during the 2014 Autumn / Winter London Fashion Week in London on February 17, 2014. AFP PHOTO / BEN STANSALLBEN STANSALL/AFP/Getty Images

Spring / Summer 2016 is all about change and we’ll see the BFC bring to fruition what they’ve promised us for years - a Fashion Week hosted entirely in the West End.  The new collections will make their debut at Brewer Street Car Park in Soho.  Previously used for fringe shows and events by the likes of Henry Holland, Richard Nicoll and Antonio Berardi, the Spring / Summer 2016 show schedule will see Anthony Vaccarello showcasing his Versus #SS16 collection as part of the #LFW line up for the first time.  Perhaps the most exciting debut however, will come from Emma Hill, former Creative Director at Mulberry and credited with bringing Mulberry into the mainstream, Hill will showcase her first and hotly anticipated accessories line, Hill & Friends.

Other newcomers to the #LFW schedule include John Smedley, Amanda Wakeley (hot on the heels of her static presentation for Fall / Winter 2015), Kelly Shaw London and Toga.

London Fashion Week Spring / Summer 2016 runs from September 18th - 23rd and I’ll be there to bring you the latest looks phresh out the runway.  With the most jam-packed (draft) schedule #LFW has seen in recent years and the West End as the venue, it looks set to be killer:

Although the main event is invite only, there are still tickets available for popular fringe event London Fashion Weekend and if you’ve never been before, it’s a great way to get involved.  So, what are you waiting for…..?

Pixie x

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Paris Couture Week: Versace

As the Fashion Flock gather in Paris for Paris Couture Week, I’m sad to say that today I’m cooped up in the UK, not cleared to fly after complications during surgery last week *sadface*.

Couture Week is one of my favourite fixtures in the fashion calendar, it’s when designers wheel out the big guns and the artistry and craftsmanship is second to none.  Let it be said that couture can NEVER be replicated on the high street and if you see it attempted - back away slowly…..

Everything about Couture Week is over the top, even the street stylers take it up a notch during this assembly of the worlds finest couturiers; the gowns are spectacular and the couture brides are to die for, it’s as much about spectacle and marvel and ‘look what I can do’ as it is about beautiful gowns.  First up, Atelier Versace.  After an awful few months for Paris, Couture Week has put fashion firmly back at the top of the gorgeous city’s agenda, proving that Paris will not be moved from what it so beautifully stands for.

The Fash Pack descended on the first of the couture shows and revelled in awe at the bespoke runway consisting of 25,000 real orchids encased under glass creating a violet and golden coloured brick effect.

The show opened with current Versace muse and Vogue cover girl, Lara Stone in a bohemian style dipped hem frock with seventies style colour matched disco boots, setting the tone for the whole show, closely followed by several pastel coloured looks in the same vein.  Very frothy and pretty but tame by Couture Week standards.

With a whole host of Versace muses past and present from Sasha Luss and Anya Rubik through to Lara Stone and Doutzen Kroes, Donatella’s goddess’ were joined by Kendall Jenner making her debut for the house of Versace, and in couture no less.  Nice work if you can get it.

As the shows story progressed, the gowns became more dramatic with that Versace modern classic split characteristic creeping in.  With sheer panels and frothy detailing, gowns appeared to float as their long lines covered models feet.

In what is surely Donatella’s strongest couture presentation since Atelier Versace’s relaunch in 2012, the designer appears to have found her groove and she’s milking it for all it’s worth.  With fashion thoroughbreds, including Naomi Campbell and Rosie Huntington Whiteley changing into runway fresh gowns for the amfAR dinner later tonight, the brands exposure is huge, and for all the right reasons.

For the climax of the show, Donatella brought out the heavyweights, (or maybe that should be featherweights?)  The gowns were wispy and featherlight, seemingly floating on a breeze.  Gowns trailed past onlookers creating a ‘just descended from heaven’ effect and bodices were fashioned from wrought iron giving a tough, aggressive edge.  This was raw femininity with an industrial vibe.

The show closed with Karlie Kloss in an ethereal mauve gown which she was sewn into backstage, topped with a Coachella worthy crown.  With uber floaty swathes of fabric, the procession of models appeared to glide down the runway, like an aggressive gang of industrial goddesses on a mission.

The collection is strong.  - So strong in fact that there are flashes of 90’s Gianni through it, especially in the structured black numbers.  With Donatella Versace cementing herself perfectly as a prime fixture of Couture Week, I’m excited about what’s to come.  With Dior, Giambattista Valli and Chanel in the coming days who knows what Paris has in store for us…

Pixie x

Every look from the Atelier Versace show is in the slideshow below.

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Fashion Voyeur by Pixie Tenenbaum

FashionVoyeur.co.uk - it’s almost ready……

I’ve been in and out of photoshoots and fashion events for the past month and continuing to post on this site but I’m pleased to say that my new home: www.FashionVoyeur.co.uk is almost ready!

If you’re a follower or reader and you want to keep following then stay tuned for updates or bookmark the new address now and you’ll never miss another post!  I’ll be bringing across all of the posts from this current domain and storing them in an archive on the new site so if there’s something there that you enjoyed reading, then please, show me some love when the new site is live!

Can’t wait to see you all over there and bring you more of what you love, in the meantime if there’s anything you’d love to see more of, then hit me up at Pixie.Tenenbaum@gmail.com with a request, use the feedback form below, or if you’re a WordPress Blogger then leave it in the comments and I’ll do my best to write it into the new site.  A few people have requested a gallery of my outfits with details of where the items are from so I’m working on that.

For now though keep reading, keep letting me know what you’re enjoying and I’ll let you know when it’s Go Time!

Pixie x

 

FASHION VOYEUR FEEDBACK FORM

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Versace, The Remix

Milan Fashion Week is a power house event that brings with it shows from the Italian fashion heavyweights; step up Versace.  You know what you’re in for with Versace; off the chain, head turning glamour with the sex appeal cranked up to ten, and this show gave us just that…… with a remix.

Backstage I saw Karlie Kloss being prepped for the show, her blonde hair mussed up into a sexy, relaxed bed head look, a strong dark eye and nude lip, a look that dripped with sex appeal.

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What’s black and red all over??  The Versace show set, that’s what.  huge, spectacular and adorned with the “Greek” logo synonymous with Versace.  The atmosphere inside was buzzy, and one of extreme anticipation.

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Pre-show, Donatella Versace said of the collection, “it’s bold, it’s fearless, it’s primary colours, It’s as if a DJ took the letters of Versace and gave them a remix” and that’s exactly right.  We saw strong primary colour blocking, head to toe, think vivid red and sunshine yellow and you’re on the right track.  Thigh high boots met the hems of high collared capes and the accessories were given just as much attention as the main line with colour co-ordinated sunglasses, belts and bags completing each outfit.

In terms of main eras of influence, this season designers seem to be in one of two camps; the 70’s or the 90’s.  Versace is firmly in the 90’s camp, one look at the aesthetic of the collection and that much is clear.  Sweaters unashamedly emblazoned with logos and prints made up of the Greek were key in this collection.

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Karlie Kloss and Natasha Poly took to the runway in mini-dresses reminiscent of a Google Doodle complete with hashtags.  The palette was simple, bold primary colours with a heavy dose of black with a little shimmer thrown in for good measure.  Killer details completed this look and if we were in any doubt whose show we were watching, Karlie’s earrings spelled it out for us.

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As we all know, Donatella has a unique flair when it comes to glamour, (who could forget the half trouser half dress worn by Jennifer Lopez last year) and as reliable as ever, there were polished pieces here too with signature cut-outs and thigh high splits.  There’s no doubt this was an eye-catching but somewhat “safe” collection from Versace but either way, it’s one that’s got Versace written all over it.

Pixie x

THAT printed jacket

Holly Fulton SS15 London Fashion Week

This is my first post on the new domain and it’s about one of my favourite subjects: London Fashion Week!  I was lucky enough to be invited to Fashion Week this year by fashion and beauty PR Agency Media Hubb and attended the SS15 show of one of my favourite British designers, Holly Fulton.

I was invited backstage before the show to really get an idea of the thought behind the show and was very interested to hear that Holly thinks of her show as a view into her world.  This is far more than a twenty minute runway show, this is an experience, and it begins when the models are cast.  Holly wanted the models skin to almost drip with luminescence and health and in order to achieve this models were gifted with beauty devices from leading home beauty device brand; Silk’n.  These included the Glide hair removal, Silhouette contouring and Sonic Clean Plus devices, all of which contributed to that flawless glow the models had on the runway.

“Fashion and beauty have the same aspiration, to make women look and feel beautiful” says Holly, “My SS15 collection is set off by illuminating skin which is smooth and soft to the touch, thanks to Silk’n revolutionary products”

models hair was kept simple in low slung ponytails with added weaves for extra length, I spoke to Hair Stylists Loui Ferri and Mags about the look and they said that it was all about a sleek look so that the focus would be on the models “glow”

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Holly hails from Edinburgh and is known for her striking graphic prints.  Her SS15 runway show theme was alluded to with the printed show invite and the show itself did not disappoint.  Nestled in the Courtyard showspace at London Fashion Week hub, Somerset House, a white reflective runway was concealed by yellow plastic as we took our seats.

The FROW was a hotbed for fashion editors, bloggers, celebrities and fashion lovers all eager for a first look at the collection dubbed “an ode to sun-worship, folk art and free expression”

The creations were decorated in folkloric magic but grounded in the precision of Modernism.  True to form, Holly sent models cascading down the runway in her signature monochrome panelled with crystal and laser cut components and bonded patent strapping.

Models wore sunglasses from Holly’s own collection; Holly Fulton for Cutler and Gross and powered down the runway to the beats of Jonjo Jury.

Holly Fulton for Cutler & Gross

Holly Fulton for Cutler & Gross

I swear my heart skipped a beat when the graphic printed silk coat appeared on the runway and my eyes seemed to naturally filter out everything else for a moment, a thing of rare beauty and craftsmanship, and something that screams Holly Fulton to anyone within shouting distance.

After a gorgeous finale with colours so sharp they looked like they had been processed with a Chrome filter, Holly made a brief appearance on the runway stopping only to wave to the crowd before disappearing again.  One thing is for sure though, the Great British High-street will be awash with tributes to this collection come February 2015 and we’ll all be back in graphic print with perspex detailing, strapping and accessories.

For more information on where to buy Holly Fulton’s Spring / Summer collection, go to: Holly Fulton

Pixie x