Karl Lagerfeld

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“See Now, Buy Now” at NYFW

NYFW SS17 has come to a close and I’ve got to be honest Voyeurs, was a little underwhelming *sadface*.  There was a time that NYFW was regaled as the mother of all Fashion Weeks and the barometer for those that follow, but now?  Not so much, and I’m not the only Fashion Influencer to feel this way.

 

I was however, intrigued to hear that Tom Ford would be showing during NYFW this season after a last minute cancellation in February, albeit shunning the traditional and expected format and showing a “See Now, Buy Now” collection during the FW16 season (including cosmetics and skincare).  Let me explain -  The fashion industry is set up to make you feel that there are two seasons: Spring / Summer (SS) February to September,  and Fall / Winter (FW) October to March.  We all know that fashion is cyclical but the idea of funding these multi million dollar campaign is that after one season (6 months) a person will shun the current “trend” and move on to the next season, buying items from the next collection to tap into the next “trend”.  Since the first NYFW in 1943, this has always been the case and designers have shown a season ahead in order to allow time for manufacturing and creating garments to sell “on season.”  Hence, you see the FW collections in February / March and the SS collections in September / October.

With me so far?  Ok, now I’m going to scramble your brain a little more -  I am of course, assuming you don’t already know this, I’ve had a lot of emails over the last two weeks from Voyeurs asking what the difference between “on season” and “off season” shows is, and although I’ve replied to all of them, this might help a little and give you something to refer back to, or even share with your friends and future Voyeurs.

Ok, now you have a very basic concept of Fashion Week as a ‘thing’, let’s fast forward to 2014 - Blogging was becoming serious business for the fashion industry, with Conde Nast representing some of the biggest names at the time including Bryan Boy and Susie Lau and Bloggers were taking their place on the Frows of huge shows.  This is when came the shift; the difference between Blogs and traditional print media is that magazines are also cyclical, printing once per week or once per month meaning you have to wait for your fix, but Bloggers make it instant, with content produced immediately and shared immediately, readers, fans and followers get a glimpse of the collections in real time.  Sure, Fashion Editors of your favourite magazines have been doing this for years, but not everyone follows or even knows who these Fashion Editor are, Bloggers have become known, recognisable and now, marketable.

People often ask me about the difference between blogging and fashion journalism, as you know I do both and there’s one clear difference to me and that’s The Voice.  Let me break it down; when you buy a magazine, you buy a piece of journalism, a feature that someone has written about a topic they’ve been asked to write about, the account is factual, and delivers a point.  Sometimes, in the case of a column, there will be added elements of humour and sometimes not but when you’ve read it, you’ve left with more information than when you started.  Blogging however, is conversational.  Sure we’re sometimes paid to write features but ultimately a blogger writes about whatever they want, they have full creative control over their content and frequency of publication.  When I’m writing for you guys, I’m writing as I would talk, it’s light, it’s fun and it’s sometimes not politically correct but the only person accountable is me.  Remember, it’s immediate and when I’m showing you those covetable items from Fashion Week, they’re not available to view or buy for another six long months.  Got it?

Ok, where were we?  Ah yes, the shift in the fashion industry….

Sooooooo, in February 2015 Burberry announced that it would shift to a “See Now, Buy Now” format which sent ripples across the industry.  The naysayers gasped, saying it would never work and was a crazy idea, and anybody in fashion manufacturing quaked in their leather rider boots at the thought of prepping an entire saleable collection pre-runway show.

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Basically the concept of “See Now, Buy Now” is simple: In September / October when an SS show would normally be shown, Burberry will show a season appropriate collection for FW, the season we’re actually in and the collection will be shoppable immediately.  Simples.  When Tom Ford announced plans to follow suit, people sat up and took notice.  Ford has the ability to pack out a show space like no other, the Grand Master of fashion with a legion of celebrity disciples so this idea must have legs, right?  Sure enough, this season alone Rebecca Minkoff and Vetements  have announced their intention to follow this model along with smaller labels.

Never one to sit quiet on a subject so prickly, Karl Lagerfeld proclaimed “Its a mess, the reality is that you have to give people the time to make their choice, to order the clothes or handbags, and to produce them beautifully so that editors can photograph them. If not, that’s the end of everything.”  Not a supporter of the See Now, Buy Now movement then eh Karl?

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With huge slumps in sales, mega discounts offered in outlet malls and the rise of fast fashion and runway reproduction on the high street, it’s no secret or surprise that the luxury fashion houses have been hit hard.  With ‘micro trends’ (think glitter roots, perspex heels, fur slides) on the rise due to online influencers, we’re seeing a new mini trend every fortnight and as a result, the designers have become the outsiders.  Now that NYFW SS17 is over, it’s time for those fashion houses to take stock; Tom ford showed an awesome See Now Buy Now collection with a whole marketing campaign designed around the very concept.  Although Calvin Klein, didn’t show this season the brand plans to emerge in February under the creative leadership of ex-Dior front man Raf Simons, and Michael Kors has unveiled his plans to show See Now Buy Now in February.

It’s clear that there are huge and exciting changes afoot for the fashion industry and although NYFW SS17 has been mediocre as best, the most memorable shows of the season are the ones which adopted a See Now, Buy Now format (I’m looking at you Tom Ford).

Over to you London….

Pixie xo

 

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Best of the Met Gala 2016

Every year when the Met Gala theme is unveiled to illustrious fanfare, I get excited and this years theme, Manus x Machina had me psyched; Fashion meets technology, man vs machines and how this translates into an entire, out of this world look, I had visions of Blade Runner meets Plato’s Atlantis and very high hopes.

It’s worth mentioning here that every year, as the first starlets begin to appear on the red carpet for the Met Gala, it’s evident that a huge proportion of them either, a. Didn’t get the memo. b. Got the memo and paid it no heed, or, c. Think they’re so freaking fabulous that the memo doesn’t apply to them.

However, to restore your faith in fashion, and celebrating those who can actually interpret and dress to a theme, I’ve put together my picks from the Met Gala 2016 (don’t worry Voyeurs, there’s a special post coming for the downright awful).  The best are those who really embraced the Manus x Machina theme with their look and looked flippin’ aces in doing so.  These starlets should be praised for not only having eyes and being able to read, but for also being brave and looking beauts for our viewing pleasure.  Feast your eyes on these futuristic treasures…..

  1. My ultimate favourite and residing at the number one spot: Poppy Delevingne, early on the red carpet and possibly the most memorable, for this spangly, beaded and probably pretty noisy effort, Poppy I salute you…

2. Jourdan Dunn. One word, just wow. From the first glimpse on the balcony of The Standard Hotel, to the entrance on to the red carpet, Miss Dunn knew this Balmain dress would turn heads and her grey tinted hair & silver smoked lids were the perfect accoutrement to this awesome display of event dressing.  Kudos JD.

3. Claire Danes scores points for the sheer unexpectedness of this bespoke Zac Posen creation.  The very definition of fashion meeting technology, this dress gave off an effervescent glow in the dark, if the Met Gala did Big Fat Gypsy Weddings, this would be the equivalent of Thelma Medine’s butterfly gown.  Total Swoon - at the Zac Posen, not the Thelma Medine, because that would be cray.

4.  In fourth place, it’s a surprising entry, Kim Kardashian West.  Now Voyeurs, you all know I’m not Kim’s biggest fan but credit where it’s due, this is a knock out dress and it’s completely on theme, from the futuristic accessories and the slicked back hair, to the robotic armour like frock.  As Gabrielle Chanel always said, when accessorising, one should remove the last piece before leaving the house in order to feel properly dressed and I can’t help but feel this rings true here - Kim, leave Kanye at home next time, denim, cuban heels and weird contacts do not a style icon make.

5. Kristen Stewart.  I love this girl.  I think she’s a fashion enigma, I adore her fuck it attitude to fashion and her total unwillingness to comply.  She bucks trends and creates new ones in doing so.  I’d turn for this girl, yes, I love her that much.  Debuting a brand  new bleached ‘do, Kristen dressed head to toe in Chanel (natch) and wore a beauty look straight off the SS16 runway better than the models.  Good work K-Stew - See me after class.  Cue wink face emoji….

6. Double threat Zayn Malik & #HuffyHadid are ranking pretty high for this matching ensemble of robotic-chicness.  “Zayn, this god damn manicure cost me $2000 dollars, I’m getting it in the shot so hold still” Gigi was overheard saying on the red carpet, probably.  Weird poses aside, the look is totes on point however #HuffyHadid has spoilt my collage by (fake) smiling in a picture and for that I can never forgive her.  Hmph.

7. Kendall Jenner, for daring to be different, yet remaining the same.  It’s trick she pulls off time and time again by wearing unexpected colour combos in old faithful styles.  This cutout mosaic dress looked like mirror tiles when she walked and looked phenomenal against the see of metallic silver gowns.  Her boobjob was made for this gown, maybe not specifically but it fit like a glove and although you can’t tell from Cindy’s Botox filled face, I think she liked it too.

8. A surprising entry from Nicole Kidman, but then whoever wore this stellar Sarah Burton for Alexander McQueen creation was going to score huge style points.  You’ll no doubt remember it for its dramatic runway appearance and the drama is ten fold on the red carpet, with its billowing cape and cutout sides, it’s freaking showstopper for all the right reasons.

9. Ok now before you dive in with any comments on this one Voyeurs, just remember that I know Taliah personally.

Never one to shy away from making a statement through performance or fashion, FKA Twigs has garnered a super loyal army of fans and this Manus x Machina interpretation was no different with some hailing it as he best look ever.  Personally, I think this is tame for Twigs but my guess is she was showcasing the tattoos and accessories.  Either way, she took the theme and put her own Twigs spin on it and it worked.

10.  Yup Voyeurs, this really is the third of the Kardashian / Jenner Klan to appear in my top ten.  It was a difficult choice between Alessandra Ambrosio and Kylie, but due to Kylie’s sheer determination, she just clinched it.  She showed up on the red carpet with a sleek new bob - we like this, a lot - and a toned down make up look for her first ever Met Gala appearance and even threw some shade, but all eyes were on THAT Balmain dress.  The dress weighed so much that after the event, Kylie was left bloodied, bruised and crying - not even jokes - and for that kind of commitment she gets the number ten spot.  Bravo Kylie.

Special Credit:  Florence Welsh and the Gucci Crew.  For being a true underdog, Florence is a risk taker, despite having a quirky signature style, she sits outside of the box rather than firmly in it and Alessandro Michele has had a hand in elevating her style status recently since making her his muse.  Florence gives hope to girls everywhere, demonstrating that flashing flesh isn’t the only option.  Totes helps that she’s ginger.

Looking back over the pictures, there were actually so many good outfits that fit the theme this year and the Manus x Machina theme is props my most favourite to date but don’t worry my dear #Voyeurs, there’s a post on it’s way rounding up the worst offenders and a special one dedicated to the atrocity that was Taylor Swift.

You’re welcome

Pixie x

 

 

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British Fashion Awards to honour Karl Lagerfeld

The Outstanding Achievement Award will be presented to Karl Lagerfeld at the British Fashion Awards on November 23rd 2015. The white haired designer will be honoured at the ceremony, which will take place at London’s Coliseum, for his unrivalled contribution to the fashion industry over the years.

For over fifty years Karl Lagerfeld has remained a formidable force in the fashion industry and has taken the helm of numerous iconic houses - including Chloe, Fendi and Chanel (obvs).  Never one to shy away from hard work, Kaiser Karl has juggled many successful careers as an award winning photographer, publisher and art director alongside his numerous design undertakings.

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Obviously It’s his work at Chanel for which he is most recognised and applauded.  A tenure of over thirty years has seen Lagerfeld’s unique vision transform the classic French house into a force majeur and one held in high esteem by any fashionista worth her Manolo’s.   A vision that extends beyond the atelier, Lagerfeld’s influence has helped launch numerous supermodel careers, has redefined fashion advertising and laid down the blueprint of how to revive a fashion brand – revolutionising the industry in the process.

A titan of the industry, Chanel under Lagerfeld’s guidance continues to push the boundaries of expectation in fashion. Setting a precedent with his awe-inspiring, globe-trotting runway shows, Karl Lagerfeld’s visionary genius has kept him at the forefront of contemporary culture for decades.

Natalie Massenet MBE commented: “Karl Lagerfeld defines outstanding. He is the champion of excellence, the master of the exceptional and one of the most iconic figures globally from our industry. His life’s work for his own and so many extraordinary brands has written the language of fashion. He is the ultimate visionary and we celebrate not only the decades already passed but those yet to happen. In Karl’s hands the future of fashion will be an exceptional one.”

For me, this has been a long time coming; no other house puts on a runway show like Chanel, Lagerfeld takes a culturally relevant theme with each new season and runs with it, literally until the legs fall off.  A modern visionary at 82 years old - I salute you Kaiser Karl, as do the British Fashion Council.

Pixie x